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Washington County Pennsylvania History and Families
FASHIONS
WASHINGTON COUNTY, PA
Submitted by Judith A. Florian, webmaster
FASHIONS 1800S IN WASHINGTON COUNTY PA
Typed by Volunteer, Amy Denecke
From The Courier newspaper, Connellsville, PA, June 28, 1895, page
11
(of 12pgs):
FASHIONS FOR THE FAIR SEX.
Expensive Accessories to Plan Costumes.
How to Make Corsages.
NEW PARASOLS IN BLACK AND GREEN
Dresses Garnished With Flowers and Ribbons, New Things in Summer Hats.
Blouses are as popular as ever and are worn on even the most ceremonious
occassions. Many new and charming materials have been introduced for these garments -- a special kind of gauze or chiffon, silk zephyrs, innumerable dainty muslin
and other soft fabrics.
Paste, which for buckles, buttons and ornaments generally has been in such immense demand of late, will have a serious rival this season in the rhinestone, which is already most extensively used for similar purposes by all the most exclusive modistes and
milliners. Stripes have once more returned to fashionable wear, striped silk being much used just now for formal gowns of all kinds. Some of the new stripes are beautifully brocaded with flower trails, but the plain are equally popular. Black satin is also in high favor at present.
White cambric handkerchiefs trimmed with fine black chantilly insertions and lace and embroidered in black with a floral garniture
are to be seen in the leading lingerie shops, while colored cambric ones, especially amber, mauve and
seagreen, are among the newest fantasies enframed with a triple hem of finely drawn white cambric. Sets of collars, cuffs and center plaits for blouses are also practical and convenient and, trimmed with lace, most attractive.Although this season's modes are -- many of them -- simple in appearance, there is a great deal of refinement of detail, and it is possible to spend an immense amount of money on a costume that seems quite ingenuously plain. The goods itself may be costly, the linings of soft, rich silk, the buttons works of art, the small accessories of the finest and daintiest description, while the garments worn beneath the gown admit of well nigh limitless cost. The finest of handmade lace and embroidery, the most delicate of linen, batiste and silk are all pressed into the service as a means of spending money lavishly.
A sketch is given of a young lady's gown of lavender crepon. The godet skirt is plain. The bodice is of white satin, adorned back and front with three round plaits of crepon -- the middle one being the largest -- underneath which run
crosswise bands of wide galloon. The bias sleeves are large at the top and tight below, being finished at the wrists by galloon. Five loops of white satin ribbon fall over the top of the sleeve.The home dressmaker should bear in mind that the lining of a bodice must be a little fuller [so] that (sic) the outside in order to insure a perfect fit. The difference is
trifiling, seemingly, but is absolutely necessary. The seams should be deeply notched at all curves, after being stitched, and should be pressed upon flat and the edge overcast or bound with thick, narrow ribbon. Before pressing the seams, it is well to pass the hot iron over a garment of the dress goods, to be sure that heat will not permanently change the color.
French modiste bone every seam of the bodice, although there the side seams of the back piece are sometimes left unboned on account of their extreme curve. The bones may be warmed and bent to the shape of the seam on which they are to be sewed. Holes can be made in them with a heated darning needle. The silk bone casing which comes by the yard may be used, or each bone may be smoothly covered before being put on the seam with a bias strip of lining. In either case the bone must be shaved thin at each end and
rounded so as not to cut through the covering.All the so called blouse corsages now worn, except of course shirt waists and negligee bodices, are made over a close fitting
lining which holds them in to the figure, however full they may be, and keep them from looking baggy.
Tatting, which was a popular sort of fancy work with the young ladies of the last generation, is again in vogue and is made in the form of yokes for nightdresses, corset covers, etc., as well as in shaped handkerchief borders and collars. It is often extremely pretty and delicate
as well as refined looking, but as the separate rings are connected by only one thread it is an extremely short lived lace and well merits its French name,
frivolite.
The sketch shows a bodice of mauve mousseline de soie with erect shirring down the shoulder seam. A fancifully cut bolero of black silk embroidered with jet covers the upper part, and epaulets of the same fashion fall over the top of the sleeves. A cravat of mauve mousseline de soie forms coquilles in front, and a draped collar of the same material surrounds the neck. The draped mousseline sleeves terminate at the elbow.
The newest parasols are of pearl and iridescent moire, encircled with two inch bands of black satin. Others, of plain satin or
moire, are narrowly edged with silken gimp or coarse guipur (?) either cream or black, while others again are artistically ornamented with applications of ____lace or coarse chantilly, either in white or black. Handles are as varied in form and make as possible. The neatest and most servicable have a small
cr____ of polished gun metal, narrowly rimmed with gold or silver. More expensive specimens are dotted with seed pearls or minute diamond sparks; some are inset with a swallow or bat, a star or a horseshoe of diamonds or mixed and colored gems; others again with ovoid knobs or round balls of crystal, are mounted in cagelike floral arrangements of silver or gold work. Plain tortoise or tortoise shell and gold handles are new and neat, while the emerald green wood sticks surmounted by a small gold cap or decorative ball or silver gilt. Louis Seize handle are the most in vogue.Scotch plaid silk is extremely fashionable in Paris. Sleeves, blouses and entire gowns are made of it, although it is most frequently employed in combination with plain goods. The plaids are of all sizes, varieties and colors, some of the blendings being really exquisite, even in the eyes of that large class of persons who have a dislike of plaids and checks as a rule. The fashion of combining green and blue in millinery has of course revived the time honored green and blue plaid, while newer combinations, such as rose and green, blue, tan and white and blendings of different tones in wood browns are as artistic and effective as could be desired.
The illustration shows an outdoor costume of old green crepon, very soft. The skirt is crossed in front and slightly lifted. The bodice is draped and crossed over a yoke of white satin embroidered with jet. The back of the bodice is plain. The tight sleeves have large puffs caught up by black satin choux, and similar choux fasten the bodice drapery. The collar of embroidered satin also has black satin choux.
This is indisputably a season of trimmings of flowers, ribbons, buttons, braid, lace, embroidery, and all these may be employed in the adornment of a single dress without any approach
to bad taste in over elaboration. Of course it must be done with exquisite taste, or the effect will be wonderfully ostentatious and insistent, or it need not be done at all,
for simply constructed dresses are as fashionable as ___ much trimmed. It is quite a matter of suiting individuals, for some women look their best with the least possible amount
of trimming, while others require a great deal in order to secure a good effect.
This year's dress, whether showed collectively or individually, is extremely bright and cheery
and pretty, calculated to have an enlivening effect on the spirits, and therefore by no means without
its weight in the adjustment of social doings. Bright colors have always a
charm for the eye if they are well arranged and not too insistent, and this season they greet
the eye on every side in hats and bonnets and gowns and blouses.
Plaid silks, changeable taffetas and crepons are the materials of the season.
In addition to these mohair is much worn in all tints. This goods, like crepon, varies
much in quality and price. Its stiffness and spring make it suitable for the present expansive style of dress, and as
it is light, cool and does not retain dust there is no lack of reasons for its position of
favor. The finer weaves are mixed with silk and are beautifully smooth and glossy. Gowns of this material are plain or
trimmed with guipure. Mohair petticoats also occupy a prominent position in fashionable esteem. They are ornamented with
silk ruffles and ribbon bows, or for harder service with moroon (?) flowers.
The illustration shows an extremely pretty gown of very light beige cloth. The skirt, ample around the foot,
is adorned by two wide, pointed bands of embroidery and braiding. The bodice is covered with similar embroidery and braiding. A belt of cherry silk is fastened
in front with a bow. The toque accompanying the gown is entirely of flowers, with an aigret bow of cherry tafetta.
Judging by present appearances, orchids and irises are to be the favorite floral garniture of the season.
One thing is to be said in their favor, which is that cheap imitation will not interfere with their
fashionable reputation. An orchid, particularly those of the small, rare varieties, is not
an easy flower to imitate, and to do so in cheap material and by unskilled hands is simply
impossible. Some of the French sprigs are marvelously faithful to nature.
Immense bows are the accepted fashion in Paris and overwhelm many of the newest hats. Blue hats with a profusion of
green trimmings are another craze and hats, also blue, trimmed almost entirely with cornflowers, which are
exceedingly pretty for those who have a complexion in keeping. Perhaps an immaculate complexion was never
needed more than at the present time, when bright colors and daring contrasts are the rule in affairs of the wardrobe.
Plateaus of straw, bent and twisted as were the felt and velvet plateaus of ____ winter, are seen among the summer
varieties of headgear and when woven of ___ round green straw, like grass stems, are exceedingly pretty and pliable.
The n___ appropriate trimming for these rustic looking hats would be flowers naturally, although velvet, ribbon and
feathers are sometimes employed.
Nearly all the thin summer capes and wraps are finished around the neck with a thick, wide rouche of ribbon,
chiffon or lace. This is becoming, but unseasonable.
Flowers have been used for millinery, for ___ and other accessories and for adorning ball gowns, hitherto, but they are now seen as part of the trimming of "dress up"
day gowns, centering boldly into the trimming of the coursage. They are used in a tint near that of the gown
rather than in abrupt contrast.
The hat shown in the illustration is of black rice straw. The brim is slightly
curled, and under the front and left side are placed a spray of roses with leaves and buds and an immense mauve and
violet pansy. A black ostrich tip terminates this trimming at the back and with another one placed at the right
frames the knot of hair. The crown is of plaited black galley with two choux, and three black plumes finish the
ornamentation.
Women who are fond of making pretty and useless decorative articles will like to know that life
size double pumpkin blossoms of paper are one of the latest fancies. They are quite effective when trailed over
a picture frame.
Silk underwear in sets of three pieces is again fashionable. Surah (?) in blue, cream, rose and other delicate
tints is the material employed, and occasionally it is used in black, with black lace. Silk underwear is
always in questionable taste, however, except in the case of petticoats, and colored lingerie is equally
undesirable. Linen, cambric, batiste, lawn and muslin, pure white in tone, are dantiest and the most refined.
The petticoat now worn under the gown is almost as long as the dress skirt itself. It is stiffened from 12 to
18 inches up and is made of silk, satin broche, flowered taffeta or alpaca and liberally trimmed.
Dress skirts continue to be plain, as indeed they must be as long as they are so wide and so heavily lined. Flat,
applied trimming, often transverse, is the principal ornamentation employed, except on skirts of dimity, muslin
and other very thin goods.
Draped sleeves are now often seen. In chiffon these sleeves are charming.
____goods is also thus arranged, choux of ribbon or velvet being employed to fasten the drapery.
Horizontal bands of flat trimming, such as insertion, passementeria and galloon, are seen on many bodices
and skirts this season in both sheer and heavy fabrics. It is an easy and effective
mode of decoration, especially for wash goods.
A picture is given of a summer gown of blue crepon. It has a bell skirt
trimmed with a quille and diagonal band of ecru guipure. The blouse bodice has a capelike collar, which
extends into the sleeves. The upper part has two bands of insertion and the lower part is finished with
a ___ flouce. The standing collar is covered with guipure and has choux of mousseline de soie. The
belt is of black satin. A hat of pale blue straw is worn with this gown. A wreath of ____ surrounds
the crown and there are two erect bows of blue and green changeable ribbon.
Necklets of colored gauffered (?) gauze, formed of rosettes and finished with plaited ends, either of similar material or of lace,
make bright adjuncts to a somber dress. Crinkled and watered gauzes are very popular, and veils passed twice round the neck and tied in a neat
little bow, either in front or at the back, are considered chic. Tulle tied in a very big light bow
at the back is also much in favor, especially in white and light tones. Small camellia buds, just
bursting, and surrounded by the glossy dark green leaves peculiar to that
shrub, are the latest novelty employed by a leading modiste.
"Modified" tailor gowns, altered to suit the elaboration and amplitude of the present mode are worn in Paris by women who have a lingering taste for a
degree of severity in dress. The bodices are arranged with crossed boleros, or are cut off
at the waist and open over a chemisette, vest or plastron, which permits the use of different blouses.
It is considered bad taste to fold napkins in fantastic forms, although once much ingenuity was
exercised to invent curious and complicated modes of arranging them. The napkin is now folded in a
plain square, with the embroidered cipher or initial on the outside, and are as little stiff
as possible. Tinted table scarfs may be employed by those who prefer them, but pure white damask
is considered to be in the best taste. In some French country houses the napkin ring has reappeared, or a similar device for individualizing napkins.
Small pockets of linen are embroidered with some pretty design and inside the flap is tacked a ribbon on
which the name of the resident guest is written in ink. When he goes, the ribbon may be ripped off,
the pocket washed and a new ribbon put on in readiness for the napkin of the next guest.
(written by) Judie Chollet (1895)
Because of the huge size the June 1895 image is
unavailable.
If you want to save or print copies of the original
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