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FASHIONS

1840s Late Romantic Basque
WASHINGTON COUNTY, PA

Submitted by Judith A. Florian, webmaster

February 1895 Evening Costume and Evening Gown

Typed by Volunteer, Amy Denecke

From The Courier newspaper, Connellsville, PA, Friday, February 1,1895, page 6 (of 8pgs):

REIGNING FEMININE STYLES

Separate Bodices are now Made of Bright Woolen Goods

ARTISTIC FURNITURE AND GOWNS.

How a Clever Girl Utilized her Grandmother's Sewing Chair.

Feb 1895 Evening Costume

EVENING COSTUME

For ordinary wear, skirts are even with the ground all the way round. For dinner and other ceremonious ocassions they may be somewhat lengthened at the back, but no (sic) very long trains are worn excepting by brides.

Separate bodices for everyday use, with dark skirts, are now made of any sort of material, no longer necesssarily of silk.

Cropon, veilings, cashmere or challie in any of the clear, bright tints now  fashionable make inexpensive and becoming waists.

 

 

Feb 1895 Evening Gown
EVENING GOWN

Last summer's light wool gowns may thus be made to service again, the wide breadths of the skirt being used for the immense sleeves, which should be stiffened with crinoline. Lace or rhous of velvet ribbon form a suitable trimming.

Muffs share in the general affluence of decoration. They are made of velvet, silk, brocade or satin, trimmed with lace, ribbons, flowers and feathers, embroidered, ruffled and pulled and generally disguised under various millinery effects.

The fact that they were originally intended to keep the hands warm seems to be entirely forgotten.

Lace is a main feature of the season's trimming, both in dark and light tints. It is said that black gui____ may be renovated by being rinsed in strong tea, which is also employed to give white laces an appearance of age.

The rodingote is much worn in Paris, although less frequently than here. It is particularly suitable for middle aged and elderly women, as it admits a greater richness of material than the short jacket and is more dignified in appearance.
Flowers are gaining in favor as a trimming for evening gowns. The costume shown in the sketch is thus adorned and is extremely effective. The front and sides of the bell skirt are of g___ satin, while the back is of white lace. The foot of the satin portion is trimmed with lace application, on which are placed large bouquets of blue flowers at short intervals. The bodice is a lace blouse held in at the waist by a sorselet belt of blue velvet fastened by four paste uttons. The 1830 decolletage is bordered by a band of white satin embroidered with jet. The balloon sleeves are of lace and terminate at the elbow with a lace ruffle. A garland of flowers crosses each shoulder.

An odd and pretty fashion is that of painting the name and the favorite flower of the owner on her pet chair. A chair seen recently in a charming home was beautifully individualized by this treatment. It was a low sewing chair that had belonged to the grandmother of the present owner, as strong today as it was 70 years ago.  This clever girl gave it three coats of white enamel paint, then gilded the two balls terminating the side posts. On the top slat across the back she painted La France roses, her favorites. On the middle slat she inscribed her name "Mary," in up and down English writing, and on the bottom slat were old fashioned pinks, her grandmother's posies. The cushion of the seat was pink india silk covered with a pattern of delicate green leaves tied on with ribbons of the two colors. The autograph and the blossoms stamped the chair with a unique individuality, and it was altogether a dainty and decorative ___ of furniture.

There is plenty of scope for the work of the amateur artist in these days. Besides the innumerable calendars, bookmarks and other old standbys on which she has long been accustomed to exert her skill she may now paint her gowns. Of course this sort of decoration is most suitable for delicate bodices or evening gowns made of silk or satin. Water colors should be used for the purpose. Thick, firm silk weaves take the color very well, without any previous preparation, but where the fabric is soft and the paint inclines to spread the pattern should first be gone over with Chinese white, the later being allowEd to dry before the real work of painting begins.

The evening gown illustrated consists of a rodingote of peacock blue miroir velvet over a plan gown of rose striped gauze. The rodingote which has has a demitrain, is lined throughtout with white liberty satin and is bordered around the lower edge with a band of sable. The short puffed sleeves are gathered into a band of lace galloon. The same galloon borders the skirt of the gauze tunic, forms the belt and edges the straight portion of the decolletage. A scarf of white liberty satin is draped around the back and shoulders of the bodice as a bertha (?) and joins the rovers (?) of the rodingote in front, other rovers are bertha being finished with a very narrow fur edge.

(written by) Judie CROLLEY (1895)

 

 

 

If you want to save or print copies of the original article:

fri-feb-1-1895_the-courier_connellsville-pa_pg6of8_cr_a

fri-feb-1-1895_the-courier_connellsville-pa_pg6of8_cr_b

fri-feb-1-1895_the-courier_connellsville-pa_pg6of8_cr_c

fri-feb-1-1895_the-courier_connellsville-pa_pg6of8_cr-evening

fri-feb-1-1895_the-courier_connellsville-pa_pg6of8_cr-evening-b

(cr in the file name means cropped)

See Full Article "REIGNING FEMININE STYLES"

 

 

 

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